Tools of the Trade

FAQs

Tools of the Trade

Gardeners seem never to have enough tools, but there are several basic principles that we need to keep in mind when evaluating a tool:

	Get the right tool for the job
	You don't need every tool
	Get a tool that 'fits'…not every tool fits every person in terms of height, hand size and strength
	Buy the best you can afford
	Don't overbuy…know what you need and what you will be using, and buy one at a time
	Learn how to take care of your tools
	New and improved" is often neither but some really are revolutionary improvements
	Touch it, feel it, hold it, lift it…you will know if it's the right tool for you…before you buy it

Gloves

The most used and abused tools that we own are our hands. They are our most valuable asset when it comes to gardening yet we often take them for granted. Blisters, splinters, cuts, bruises, thorns, torn cuticles, dirt-encrusted fingernails…pain leads to not enjoying our favorite pastime

All of this can be prevented with the use of gloves. Unfortunately, however, there is no one miracle glove that can be used for all gardening tasks. Gloves can be as specialized as many other garden tools are. Following are a few types to consider adding to your arsenal of gardening equipment. The key to choosing any type of glove is comfort, comfort, comfort! Next is the flexibility to meet the challenge of the task at hand.

Cotton, jersey, or canvas gloves: inexpensive and good for general duty gardening, don't stiffen up when we, washable, and allow for more dexterity…but they don't feel good when they get wet! Foxgloves are a type of form-fitting supplex/lycra gloves that are very good at keeping the dirt out of your nails, can get wet, wear well, and give a tactile sense for handling things.

Rubber or latex gloves: relatively inexpensive, keep hands dry, flexible, thorn-resistant, washable…but not good if you have latex allergies. All-rubber gloves let you can put your hands deeper into a water bucket…and you can get them with a winter lining.

Leather gloves: A must have…well worth the investment! Good protection from thorns, brush, and blisters. Test fit by putting on and flexing your fingers; they should be comfortable and flexible and should not bind or bite or tub anywhere. Even if one finger does, don't get them because you won't wear them. If they feel dry or rough on your hand it means poor quality due to cheap tanning of the leather. And there are some companies that sell gloves that are made just for women.

There are three types of leather used to make gloves: Cowhide (most common, very durable, but stiffen when wet); pigskin (tough, get more supple with age, and can be washed in cold water); deerskin and goatskin (supple, not as strong as cowhide or pigskin; goatskin is infused with lanolin).

Gauntlet gloves: protect hands and forearms but do not fit well over long sleeves.

Chemical gloves: heavy duty rubber gloves to protect from chemical/insecticide/ fertilizer burns. Nitrile gloves are the best because they have permeation resistance.

Hand Care

For those who cannot work with gloves on, protect your hands by (1) using paraffin-based lotions (protects pores from filling with dirt); (2) scraping your nails on a soap bar; (3) applying lotions and salves heavily around the cuticles.

Surgical brushes are the best thing for scrubbing your hands clean.

Ergonomics

If you suffer from tendonitis, carpel-tunnel syndrome, repetitive-motion disorder, or arthritis - or if you simply want to be more comfortable and work with greater ease:

Use ergonomically-designed tools (for example, tools with right-angle handles for less effort and no wrist action)

Use large-circumference handles for less strain in holding and using the tool (the ideal diameter for a power grip is 1¼ to 1½ inches)

Make padded hand grips for rakes and shovels by using foam pipe insulation. Use the split type and apply contact cement to the tool handle to hold it in place.

Get a tool that fits your hand. For example, if you get pruners that cause you to overextend your fingers, you will tire easily (e.g., a Felco #6 pruner has a smaller grip than a #2).

Switch hands frequently

Digging Tools, Rakes, Hoes, and Miscellaneous

Shovels and Spades

There are two categories of digging tools: long-handle tools and hand tools. In America the most popular digging tool is the shovel while the spade is the tool of choice in the rest of the world. The origin of this goes back to the pilgrims, who came from the Cornish area of England and brought the Cornish spade to America with them. Our shovel is almost identical to their Cornish spade. No matter what you use make sure you buy what you need.

The difference between a spade and a shovel is shape and function, and the question may be asked: What's best, a shovel or a spade? A spade is the best tool to actually dig or penetrate directly into the soil. Its straight blade is designed for that purpose. Now, to get the soil out of the hole and toss it somewhere the shovel is the tool of choice. (Of course, a post-hole digger can do both things and does a great job with small holes for planting.) There are many specialty spades and shovels, so look around and try them out before you buy.

Here are some basic guidelines and information about digging tools, in general:

The head, the business end of the tool, is made of steel. The best tools are made from tempered steel. The tempering, reheating process gives added strength to the steel.

The head can either be hand-forged by hammer and anvil or drop forged by machine. Hand-forged tools are more expensive.

Look for the blade and the socket for the handle to be a single forged piece and the rivet to go through the handle completely so the head is firmly attached.

Avoid tools that are die cut from sheets of steel and tools that are welded together.

Stainless steel tools are beautiful and will not rust but can often be expensive.

If you care for your tools properly, rust is not often a real problem.

Select a handle length for your size; a good rule of thumb is that the top of a short-handle tool with a grip is about waist high.

Look for a big step area on the shovel dish.

Handle Materials

Wood is the most common shaft or handle used for digging tools. Ash is the best wood for handles followed by hickory because they are strong and flexible. Handles labeled as "hardwood" might look and feel good but some hardwoods break easily with heavy use. Examine the whole handle carefully and avoid painted handles because you can't see the quality of the wood. Any knots or imperfections can prove to be weak spots and could crack. Fiberglass and aluminum handles are sometimes used because they are light and durable. The problem with these handles is the vibrations that are transmitted up the handle. Striking the head into the soil sends vibrations up the handle and soon you can get numbness and tingling of the hands. The metal shafts are also cold in late fall and winter.

Handle Grips

Short-handle digging tools have handles that are "T", "D", or "YD" shaped.

The "T" handle can be wood or plastic and is the most comfortable to push against when digging.

The "D" handle, often plastic, is easy to hold but is usually riveted on and that rivet site turns out to be a weak point. Also, long exposure to sunlight will degrade plastic and cause cracking and breakage.

The YD handle is a thing of beauty. It is the hand-split wood shaft with a wood cross bar at the top.

Construction

The junction between the handle and tool head is the most stressed point on a digging tool. A forged socket or steel strapped head into which a tapered handle is fitted is the best and strongest method of joining handle and head.

Avoid open-backed tools (closed-back means it is smooth, unshaped) that allow soil to accumulate next to the wood. This allows the wood to stay damp and can lead to rot or weakened wood that can snap under stress.

Some tools have a piece of hardware joining the handle and the head. Look for solid, heavy-duty hardware that goes all the way through the handle.

Hand Tools for Digging

stainless steel trowel.jpg

The classic trowel is a necessity in any garden. There are many styles, sizes, and weights, so try them out. The important thing is to use a tool that is comfortable for your hand and that gets the job done with the least amount of work possible.

The thinner trowels are called transplant trowels and are good for tight spaces.

There is a tool called a soil scoop, with a smaller version called the potting scoop that is nicely designed for digging and has a serrated edge for cutting roots or even bags of soil.

The Wilcox trowel comes in many sizes; it has a point on the tip and has measuring lines on the blade that can be used for determining hole depth.

Mattock

This is a must-have tool! Get one…it's the best tool for lifting grass or sod…but with a light (2.5 lbs) model. The wood handle must fit tightly, directly into the eye of the tool head. The tight fit is what keeps the tool head in place. The best way to use the mattock is to first use a sod cutter cut the grass into sections for lifting. Mattock heads have various configurations, so decide what you need it for before you buy one. There is also a short-handle version.

Garden Fork

Another whole discussion comes about when garden forks are the topic. The fork is a great tool for loosening and turning soil and also for dividing plants. There are many styles but again, just try them out and get the best you can afford for the amount of use you expect.

Pitch (Mucking) Fork

This is a tool that is hard to be without if you need to move a lot of mulch.

Hoes

Hoes are another line of tools that people get downright vehement about. Some tools that are called weeding tools are actually both digging tools and weeders. The Ho Mi digger, or Korean hoe, is considered by many horticulturists to be the best all around handy tool on the market. It comes with either a short or a long handle and it can be used to make furrows and holes as well as for weeding - especially close to plants and in cracks.

Rakes

The principles for selecting a rake are the same as for digging tools as far as the quality is concerned. The two most essential types are the garden rake and the leaf or lawn rake. A rake with metal tines is preferred by many gardeners over those made of plastic or bamboo, although the last two are lighter. A small, narrow metal lawn rake is good for getting into tight spots

rock rake.JPG

Rock rakes are excellent when digging in soil that has a lot of stones to remove. A landscape rake is useful if you are regrading, building new gardens, or renovating your lawn.

Weeding Tools

Weeding can be done with chemicals or mechanically - by hand or with tools. The idea is to pull the weeds before they go to seed. Annual weeds can be cut just below the soil surface to kill them (going to deep brings weed seeds to the surface and helps them to germinate).

There are three types of weeding tools: claw (cultivator), slicing tool, and dandelion tool.

Claw: The claw, or cultivator, is good for large patches of spreading weeds because it uproots the weeds. A nylon claw is effective.

stirrup hoe.jpg

Slicers

Slicers are the most common and the most diverse type of weeding tool. They are used to scratch the soil surface and remove the tops of the weeds.

1. The circle hoe and the garden bandit both allow weeding close to plants; the motion is pull only.

2. A winged weeder has a push and pull action.

3. An angle weeder cuts along the surface and cuts out tap roots.

4. A crack weeder gets weeds in cracks and between bricks and stones.

Dandelion Tool

This tool is designed to go deep into the soil to get out the entire tap root of the dandelion.

Cutting Tools

Included in this category are pruners, loppers, hedge shears, and saws.

Pruners

bypass hand pruner.jpg

The bypass pruner is like a scissors in that one blade slides by the second blade and makes a clean cut. Actually, the second blade is not a blade but rather a hook that is blunt and holds the stem to prevent it from slipping out while the blade cuts through. The cutting blade is flat on the side next to the hook and beveled on the outside. The bypass pruner works best on green wood. It often causes less damage to the branch.

The anvil pruner works like a knife on a cutting board. The blade is a wedge, sharp to the point, and is sharpened on both sides. These are more powerful than bypass pruners and a good for cutting larger stems. However, it tends to crush the stem.

The ratchet pruner is actually a type of anvil pruner, but it allows for gentler cutting with less effort and gives a cleaner cut. The ratchet type comes with both long and short handles and in several sizes, but they can be expensive.

Loppers

compound-action lopper.jpg

Basically, loppers are nothing more than large pruners. You will need one for branches that are ½ inch or more. Using a lopper prevents damage to the plant, the tool, and you. They come in the three same styles as the pruners but the ratchet system allows you to cut branches faster and easier than using a saw.

Hedge Shears

There are three types of blade systems for hedge shears:

Straight blade shears are the most common. These are for most hedges and English style gardens. Both blades are sharply ground.

Wavy blade shears are ground in a distinctive wave pattern. The wave traps groups of twigs and prevents them from slipping away. These are for cutting fairly open structure hedges, like pines and vines.

Blade and edge shears are used for grasses and soft-leaf plants like ivy. The bottom blade is a broad-faced blade that holds the stems upright and the upper blade is sharp to slice cleanly through the stem.

Saws

There are two factors to consider in selecting a saw:

First, the number of teeth, also called points, per inch. Saws have up to ten teeth per inch; seven to eight is a good choice for trimming shrubs or trees. The smaller number of teeth is for cutting large logs and trees.

Second, is a factor called kerf. This refers to the slight angle off center at which the teeth are set. If you look straight down the blade of a saw you can see the kerf of the teeth. The purpose is to make the cut area slightly larger than the width of the blade. This reduces friction and the saw blades moves through easier. Depending on the kerf, the process of cutting is on either the pull action, the push action, or both.

The higher number of teeth and the smaller the kerf the smoother the cut. There are newer model saws that have no kerf, are very thin, and very sharp. They are called Turbo or frictionless blades and they cut on the pull only.

Hauling

No matter how much you love it, gardening is often hard work. We are forever arranging, rearranging, or building just one more garden. Bags of compost, soil, peat, and mulch or perhaps rocks, bricks, or pavers are constantly moving in and out of the garden. A good means of transporting everything is essential.

The two main styles of garden vehicles for transporting stuff are the wheelbarrow and the garden cart. Always make sure you have easy egress to your backyard!!!

When selecting a wheelbarrow look for a pneumatic tire or the ones that don't go flat and are about 4 inches wide. Get a strong and reinforced frame but lightweight, if possible. A contractor's wheelbarrow is too heavy to use in the garden. Try the garden wheelbarrow out at the store…put some stuff in it and wheel it around.

Garden carts have two bicycle-style wheels, don't tip over easily, and carry up to 400 pounds, with easy turning and shock absorption.

Tool Care

Taking care of your tools means more than bringing them in from the rain and putting them in the shed or the garage. Cleaning, oiling, and sharpening them allows us to jump right in when spring comes.

	Clean off all caked dirt with water and scrub it necessary; check open sockets where tool blade and handle meet
	Disinfect tools if working with any diseased plants; use antiseptic wipes (see Tips for Gardeners)
	Use a wire brush or rust bar to remove rust
	Apply oil to all metal and moving parts; use oil wipes; make an oil-sand slurry; wipe off excess (see Tips for Gardeners)
	Wipe wooden handles with linseed oil
	Use a good soap (e.g., like Cra-z Soap) to clean off tree gum
	Sharpen tools once or twice a year, except for frequently used tools. Hand clippers and loppers sometimes become dull during the job. A pocket sharpener, such as a self-storing sharpener, is very effective and saves time.
	Repair hoses and coil them before putting them away
	Wash gloves, put salve on leather gloves, and store in a dry place

Now you are ready to order your seed catalogs!

Tips for Gardeners

	Make an oil/sand slurry with about a pint of motor oil to 20 pounds of course sand. Clean your tool then insert it into the slurry a few times. Wipe off the excess sand and oil.
	Make oil wipes by using baby wipes with about 2-3 ounces of motor oil added to the container. Make sure the container is well labeled as to its contents.
	Make disinfectant wipes by adding Lysol, alcohol, bleach, or whatever disinfectant you want to a container of baby wipes. Make sure the label is marked to warn against use on a baby. Commercial antiseptics are available on the market.
	Make padded hand grips for rakes and shovels by using foam pipe insulation. Use the split type and apply contact cement to the tool handle to hold it in place.
	Paint the handle of small tools a bright color, other than green, to ensure they do not get lost in the lawn or garden.
	Use a mail box in the garden to hold small tools and plant ties. Whenever you are in the garden you will have what you need for quick jobs.
	Try an old golf bag to hold long-handle tools and accessories.
	Keep an old pair of rubber boots our in the garden, hung upside down on a stake or pole. You won't get your shoes dirty when you stop to do "just one thing."

Patricia Davis and Mary Mason

URI Master Gardeners

Tools of the Trade